Siraya Tech Blu Nylon Mecha - Tough 3D Print Resin, Scratch-Resistant, Nylon-Like Strength & Precision, High-Resolution 405nm UV Curing LCD DLP 3D Printer Compatible, 8K Capable (1kg, Nylon Mecha)

I was mixing to get something like ABS but stiffer. Blu Nylon Like is exactly what I needed.

I use it for mechanical parts, great strong resin, love it. Took a bit of time to tweak to my photon S printer, but after that, all the prints come out perfect. * Tip, cure it till it losses it green yellow color, and become clear blue, takes time with my DIY curing station, and a bit tricky with thick parts. Direct bright sun does much greater job. Update: tried the clear version, it seems to be softer, with longer cure times, the blue color really helped with knowing curing times, with the clear its a bit more tricky. If you are not aiming for a clear print, go with the blue version.

Please note: Im talking about wall thickness here, not overall dimensions - that is a matter of how accurate your printer is. This is the only resin that will print a wall thickness on a part that is equal to or a hair under the size of the drawing. Every other resin Ive seen prints .1mm - .2mm too thick due to light scatter in the resin during printing. So, this resin is good for structural parts from the getgo. Its still a DLP resin, and its still brittle, but its stronger than most of them. It does a fantastic job on negative details. Positive details, if theyre tiny, can get lost, as the resin does tend to underprint that tiny bit. Basically, as of right now, this resin has no competitor that I know of - you can simply design a part, print it, and install it. You dont have to shrink the file in your CAD program first to allow for oversized prints. NOTE: this resin likes to be printed at 28-30 degrees. It is EXTREMELY viscous.

Using this resin with an Elegoo Mars with amazing results. Strength. Durability. Transparent Blue. This is it folks. There is a learning curve with this resin as is most new resins you will try. But at these prices, a failed print isnt a total financial disaster. Not the best smell but to be fair, I havent found a resin yet that i enjoy sniffing. I put my Chitubox blu profile in pictures, hope it helps.

Im using this resin with a MOAI 130/SLA printer. I had to adjust the power down a bit but it does print well, my favorite right now. Need to be careful during curing as it can turn brown with too much exposure. A few minutes is enough to get the job done. It cleans up fast with Ethnol. Has a green translucent tint. Can be sanded to a glass like finish.

I bought 1000mg and got two 500mg instead. One was awesome hands down the best I have ever worked with, I am new though. The second bottle or resin though failed to print one single print. they kept coming out melted. This is my only experience with this problem so I suspect not enough hardener mixed in the bottle. If they cant do more product testing I am not sure I would buy again.

Adding this to other resins gives you the benefit of the added strength without the gummy and difficult printing, if you are building parts for use in a mchanical setting, you may beed to use a heater and 100% this resin, but for miniatures, a 50% mix of this and another resin (i use elegoo gray) results in amazing prints OLD REVIEW before mixing: This resin is not easy to use and despite the description, DOES REQUIRE A HEATER. I shake my resin, store in 78 degree F home, and have been printing with ZERO failures for months (150+ minis). I printed an entire bottle (1/2 of the order [roughly $27 USD worth] and all but 2 prints failed the same way; the supports would print, but the model would/did not due to the resin being so sticky/thick. I have consulted other users on reddit printing the same models i was, and used all the setting options in the google sheets from many sources including ones i was told worked for them (they had a heater). The two prints that were successful... I sat with a blow dryer on high on and off every 15 minutes for 3 hours and baby sat the prints. I had to replace my FEP once because the resin stuck to it so tightly that during clean up it ripped the film. The resin its self is amazing when it prints, and would be my default resin moving forward if it were not so awful to work with. having to heat the enclosure will shorten the life of the LCD screen and technically all the electronic components in the printer, and makes the already TERRIBLY smelly resin than much more pungent. Unless you plan to vent ALL exhaust ports outside, plan to build and install a heater and shorten the life of your printer, and want several torn FEP films, I suggest you move on to something that works at room temperature.

Not impressed so far. The detail is really good. The stickiness is hard to get rid of. Ive washed, washed and washed. Still some stickiness even after multiple passes on ultrasonic cleaner. Ive cured for 2 days and still sticky.

Looks cool, prints globby on overhangs. I mix in 1/3 of this to 2/3 Sculpt and that works very well.

Probably my favorite resin on my Phrozen Sonic Mega 8k. Strong, tough prints.. they can take some serious abuse. It also holds detail very well. Bang for the buck, its hard to beat. A few tips: 1. You definitely need a heated chamber, or a print room that is around 78-79 degrees F. 2. If you want it super clear, spray it with a gloss clear coat after curing. It will look like glass. 3. If you are having trouble with it staying tacky after curing, cure it while submerged in water. It will fix the issue. I cure all of my prints in water now. 4. If your build plate has holes (UGHHH), back your bottom exposure time, bottom layer and transition layer counts way down from recommended settings or you will spend forever trying to remove the raft. Im currently using 30sec bottom exposure, 6 bottom layers, 4 transition layers. It still takes a good soak in a heated bath (50c) to successfully peel it from my build plate... but its way easier than it was before.