Siraya Tech Blu Nylon Mecha - Tough 3D Print Resin, Scratch-Resistant, Nylon-Like Strength & Precision, High-Resolution 405nm UV Curing LCD DLP 3D Printer Compatible, 8K Capable (1kg, Nylon Mecha)

It does yellow a bit while curing but it is really strong. You could bang the output against your desk (my wife did) and not break. I did drop from 5’ onto my garage floor a long but skinny item and it broke cleanly but I honestly would expect anything similar shape out of most materials would of

By far the best resin I have used. I would like if it was a bit cheaper but overall pretty good value. It does need to be heated up and the room temperature needs to be adjust upwards of 80 degrees. Also, there is little to no smell.

I got a bottle of Blu (clear) v2 because of a recommendation on Zack Freedmans youtube channel. He used Blu to build high impact parts for a nerf blaster and found it was the only resin that didnt break in stress testing. Having just tested my first parts off the plate with it, I can confirm that it is ridiculously tough. Most resins, when printed in a cube or brick, will either be rubber-like or shatter into ultra-brittle dust when hit with a hammer. Siraya Blu is different. Its glassy, tough, and isotropic like molded PA66 or PC. I printed Tableflips Cones of Calibration with it, and tried to smash them with a hammer, and they took several hard blows on concrete. I am going to try printing a pneumatic manifold and burst testing it just to find the limit of this resin. The downside is a loss of X/Y precision due to some light bleed and a rather difficult washing process. I find theres about 0.2mm of additional scum on top of walls that isnt quite cured, but doesnt quite wash off. This might be a problem with my old FEP film, Ill have to compare to a fresh one eventually. For now, a little extra scrubbing is acceptable.

Please note: Im talking about wall thickness here, not overall dimensions - that is a matter of how accurate your printer is. This is the only resin that will print a wall thickness on a part that is equal to or a hair under the size of the drawing. Every other resin Ive seen prints .1mm - .2mm too thick due to light scatter in the resin during printing. So, this resin is good for structural parts from the getgo. Its still a DLP resin, and its still brittle, but its stronger than most of them. It does a fantastic job on negative details. Positive details, if theyre tiny, can get lost, as the resin does tend to underprint that tiny bit. Basically, as of right now, this resin has no competitor that I know of - you can simply design a part, print it, and install it. You dont have to shrink the file in your CAD program first to allow for oversized prints. NOTE: this resin likes to be printed at 28-30 degrees. It is EXTREMELY viscous.

definite step up in quality resin

Tried many times to get to work with Elegoo Mars printer. Zero successful prints. Have printer in 80degree climate controlled area. I wouldnt recommend this to anyone. Useless. Supplier contact me and let me know if its my error and I will change review.

Used for mechanical prototyping. Low scent but, like most resins yellows if cured in air. Id recommend curing in a dead water bath, if you can. Also, like most resins, gets brittle when over-cured.

The prints with this stuff look so great, and the detail it provides is great. I wish there was a translucent in every color of the rainbow from these guys, because I love the look of the prints unpainted with this stuff.

had some adhesion issues, relevel fixed, prints very nice on the elegoo mars, still a bit brittle but comes out very nice after an IPA soak

I havent tried Blu on its own yet. Have been getting good results for miniatures by mixing 25% Blu Clear and 75% ST Fast grey. Mixing is easily done by shaking in a spare bottle, filling it with a funnel on a scale and measuring by weight.