eMylo Smart WiFi Light Switch Wireless Relay Switch Module Remote Control Home Automation Timers Compatible with Alexa Echo Google Home iPhone Android App 2 Packs

Device is bigger than anticipated but it worked for my installation. Set up was very straight forward. They must have worked out the kinks. I also manage to connect to google home very easily. I installed bunch of Lutron Cassette’s home before this device, I would have probably consider more of these which are cheaper than casetta’s

I used this to replace an old mechanical wheel style timer switch for my outside lights. I was able to pull the mechanical guts out of the box, and replace with this device. hooking up was easy, and setting up the connectivity was also very easy with the app. I was able to program it to turn on my lights in the morning, and turn them off at sunrise, and turn them on again at sunset and off at a set time. No more adjusting the timer as sunrise and sunset changes. The entire project including wiring, starting an account and programming the events took less than an hour.

Great easy to install product

It works as expected. if you have it in line with another wifi set of lights it will independently turned on.

Con este dispositivo puedo encender y apagar diferentes aparatos desde mi celular, prácticamente de cualquier parte del mundo con solo tener internet.

I originally bought these to set up an IFTTT routine, when I turn on one switch two of these come on as well. This work GREAT for almost two years. Now SmartThings (the software that controls the switch) has decided to no longer work with IFTTT, their help section says; Were sorry we are no longer working with IFTTT, please use our ap instead and you cant add external devices.... Smart devices are supposed to work TOGETHER that is the whole idea of connected home! Great switch RUBBISH company!

Im not good at downloading apps and getting them to work, but, I did it and it was relatively easy. Works great with Alexa as well.

Setup pool lights and waterfall pump. Pump was actually setup on 240V and this gadget works fine with it. Replaced ancient X10 relays and it does the job.

Good for low power applications.

So I had tried several other products, such as the popular Sonoff brand switches. I absolutely could not get them to work at all, even after contacting their support. I ended up returning those other brand switches. So I ordered these on a whim, they are a new product, and when I ordered there were NO reviews posted yet. Risky I thought, but oh well. Upon receipt they were nicely packed, with good quality quick connectors instead of crappy wire nuts but - first complaint here is that while the end caps are removable, there is no point to removing them. The wires are soldered to the PCB inside the unit - personally, I would rather them forgo the quick connects and wires, and just put a screw header on the PCB for connecting whichever wiring you need to. Nonetheless, the ends of the wires were pre-tinned with solder to keep them from fraying which was a nice touch, and the connectors they provided were of good quality - but they dont work well on high AWG wire (such as 12 AWG). They did work good on smaller AWG however. In my use case, I was putting these switches inside of fluorescent fixtures, where the internal wiring is 18 AWG, but the home wiring is 12 AWG. So I was able to use the connectors for the fixture side of the switch, but not for the internal house side. It would not bite onto a solid core 12 AWG wire and stay attached. Just something to note if you are using these as most people would. Anyways, those issues aside, they were fairly easy to set up - I used some double-sided foam tape to attach them to the inside of the fixtures, and was able to get them wired up fairly quickly. You could do this and then set them up in-situ, but I decided to get them setup prior to wiring, and I am glad I did. Thankfully I have a quick-test so I can connect devices to mains for situations like this (search for CLIFF Quick Test on Google, I cant recall where I ordered my US version from). This enabled me to connect to mains voltage at my workbench and get them configured and synced to my account prior to installation - definitely do this if you can. As for setup and linking: The instructions are pure garbage. Throw them away and do this - this was the ONLY reliable method I found to configure. 0) Before starting, you absolutely positively you must have a 2.4 GHz only wireless AP set-up. I did this on my router by setting up a guest network for all of my smart devices on the 2.4 GHz band only. This ensures the device only connects to that SSID and that frequency, and wont complain in the app if you have a dual band router. 1) Connect your cell phone to the same 2.4 GHz AP you are using for the smart devices. Install the Smart Home app if you have not already and get your account set up. 2) In the app, use wall switch for adding a new device type, and get it to the point where it says to make sure your device is blinking during the on screen setup. 3) Hold the button down for at least 10 seconds. It will click several times. After 10 seconds, release the button. 4) Immediately after release, count for 1 beat, and then hold in the button again for an additional 10 seconds. 5) Click the confirm/next button in the app to tell it your device is blinking. 6) Wait for the phone to finish setup - the switch might click once or twice. Be patient! Sometimes it takes the full 2 minutes. 6b) If somehow this doesnt work, return to step 3 and repeat, making sure you are following the button holds exactly. 7) It should be set up - test and make sure the switch clicks when you press the switch on screen on the app. Rename the device as desired - it will probably come up named by default with chinese characters. 8 - optional) Link your smart life account with your google or amazon account according to those providers normal process. I did this with google - and then afterwords I told google home to resync devices. Congrats, done! Now install them in the fixture (turn off your power at your breaker panel first!!!) and restore power, and give them about 30 seconds or so to reconnect up, and then test them out. Note: you could do the setup in-situ if you cannot connect before installing, its just going to be more difficult if you are on a ladder arms above head :) Oh and last bit - once all of this was done, they are working GREAT - they respond extremely fast - I also inspected the components, and they used decent quality components - the relays seem properly sized for the task, etc. Just make sure you adhere to their specifications - 10 A MAX - I wouldnt go more than 8 amps to give yourself a buffer - I am using on lights, so probably an amp max for me. 4/5 stars due to poor instructions and other minor complaints. If they update the instructions and change to screw post connectors, I could give this 5 stars.